Notes taken during travels in Africa — Text and Context

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Davidson, John, 1797-1836 Project Gutenberg 2023 Not confirmed
Morocco -- Description and travel Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Words 96,499
Reading time 420 min
Text sections 10

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John Davidson's posthumously published journal records his 1835 journey from London into the Moroccan interior, blending travelogue, ethnographic observation, and personal struggle. The notes reveal a traveller negotiating cultural encounters, health crises, and the logistics of desert travel, all while maintaining a sharp eye for detail.
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ut hopes of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted my eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.

Friday, Sept. 18.—Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to be found. He shewed me the use of Kater’s circle, and offered me his own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.

Saturday, Sept. 19.—The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place; and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire; but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are a real plague.

Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ‘Ecclesia Nova,’ and heard, as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.

Sunday, Sept. 27.—[The journal of the week, from the 20th to the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties; and though Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.]

Monday, Sept. 28.—Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill, for dealing feloniously in slaves.

Tuesday, Sept. 29.—In the morning the weather was beautiful, but at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa, for the purpose of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs].

Wednesday, Sept. 30.—The rain came _slick_ through the house, and the weather was very cold.

Thursday, Oct. 1.—Attended the whole day, during which there was a great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced to an imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion, but which side he took is not told.]

Monday, Oct. 5.—Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house, and then to O’Hara’s Tower; saw the monkies; descended the Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael’s Cave.

Wednesday, Oct. 7.—Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon the subject of a letter from Morocco.

Thursday, Oct. 8.—The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut.

Saturday, Oct. 10.—Went with a party of thirteen to see the convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery magnificent. As we returned by the _Bocca Leonie_, it made our ride about forty miles,—a pretty long excursion for a summer’s day.

Sunday, Oct. 11.—Three packets arrived from England;—as yet no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor’s bag. Went to St. Roques’. Was disappointed.

Monday, Oct. 12.—Breakfasted at Major Rose’s, where I met Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived by the packet from England. He lectured afterwards in the Methodists’ chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As young Mr. Hay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The _Jasseim_ sailed.[3]

Tuesday, Oct. 13.—Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.

Friday, Oct. 16.—Heard bad news, which was, however, not confirmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is impossible to glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought with him a lot of presents.

Monday, Oct. 19.—Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.

The journal opens not in Africa but in England, with Davidson and his Moroccan companion Abou travelling by mail coach from London to Falmouth. Abou's remarks on English efficiency—the speed of travel, the punctuality of the mail, the seamless changing of horses—offer an early sign that this narrative will be shaped by cross-cultural comparison. Davidson records Abou's observation that in England, 'no place for more than a mile could be seen without a settlement; all is productive: no misery.' This initial perspective, filtered through a foreigner's astonishment, sets a pattern: Davidson frequently notes how his own assumptions are challenged or confirmed by what he witnesses.

The journal's private printing for friends explains its unpolished, immediate style. Entries are dated and often brief, recording events, conversations, and physical symptoms with equal matter-of-factness. The reader is plunged into a world where political news arrives by express, gifts are refused with diplomatic care, and a request for a love-charm is met with a fabricated story. Davidson's voice is that of a practical observer, not a romantic adventurer.

A Traveller's Precarious Health

Throughout the excerpts, Davidson's physical condition is a recurring concern. He records fainting spells, 'great swimming in the head,' and the oppressive heat. On June 28, he notes: 'I was taken very ill, and compelled to lie down.' The next day he takes calomel and Hunt's pills, but lacks 'courage to bleed myself.' His remedies are improvised: he tries to reduce tobacco use, abandons tea, and seeks shade in a garden. These entries are not mere asides; they shape the narrative's rhythm. Illness forces delays, alters plans, and underscores the vulnerability of a European traveller in an environment where medical support is absent. Davidson's candour about his symptoms—and his occasional failure to follow his own advice—gives the journal an unvarnished authenticity. The reader watches a man managing his body as carefully as he manages his negotiations with local leaders.

Negotiating Trust and Danger

Davidson's journey depends on the goodwill of local guides and sheikhs, but trust is fragile. News of an attack by the Ergebáts on Taghakánth is 'bad news for me, as we shall assuredly be attacked when passing the district.' He is asked whether he will fight, and must demonstrate his ability with sword and pistols. His guides promise extra water but warn that 'one Samúm may drink it all up.' The journal captures the constant calculus of risk: gifts are refused to avoid obligation, a love-charm is promised to secure a guide's loyalty, and Davidson must judge whom to trust. Hájí Majíbí is a 'consummate scoundrel'; Mas'úd leaves 'in dudgeon' after a refusal. These micro-negotiations reveal the social currency of the desert—reputation, reciprocity, and the performance of authority. Davidson's success depends not on force but on reading character and managing expectations.

Encounters with Slavery and Suffering

On June 28, Davidson records: 'A large arrival of poor female slaves: I was astonished at their spirits, especially when I saw the parting of two sisters; they certainly have not the same feelings as the whites.' He adds, 'I am sorry to admit a point, which I have often strongly contested.' This brief entry is striking for its honesty and discomfort. Davidson does not elaborate, but the admission signals a shift in his understanding. Earlier, he had argued against the idea that enslaved people felt less acutely; now, confronted with a scene he cannot reconcile, he revises his view. The journal does not moralize; it simply notes the observation and moves on. Yet the moment lingers, a crack in the traveller's certainty. Elsewhere, he records the death of Mekkí, who 'might have been saved, had he followed my advice.' These glimpses of suffering—human and animal, physical and emotional—accumulate, reminding the reader that Davidson's journey passes through a landscape of hardship that he can only partially comprehend.

The Texture of Daily Life in the Desert

Amid political intrigue and physical decline, Davidson records the mundane details that give his journal its texture. He attends the unpacking of ivory, noting that 'some of the teeth are immense' and that large tusks are discarded for lack of transport. Abou tells him that people near Kong 'live entirely upon elephants.' Hámed, a grateful guide, asks for a love-charm to win his cousin, who 'does not love me, although I am the Sheïkh's son.' Davidson fabricates a story about needing the lady's presence to fold the charm—a small comedy of cross-cultural misunderstanding. These episodes are not digressions; they are the stuff of daily interaction. The journal's strength lies in such particulars: the thermometer reading of 82°, the hazy morning, the carpet taken to the garden. Davidson does not generalize about 'the Arab' or 'the desert'; he records what he sees and hears, leaving the reader to piece together the world he moved through.

Davidson's notes are exactly what their title promises: rough, immediate, and incomplete. They do not offer a polished travel narrative or a systematic ethnography. Instead, they present a first reading with the raw material of encounter—negotiations, illnesses, observations, and moments of doubt. The reader is advised to attend to the dates and the shifting tone: the journal's brevity is not a flaw but a feature, reflecting the constraints under which it was written. Treat each entry as a fragment of a larger puzzle, and resist the urge to fill gaps with assumptions. The value of this record lies in its very incompleteness, its refusal to smooth over the difficulties of travel and understanding.

Reading his desert notes, I remembered my grandmother’s diary, where she lingered on ordinary details—dates, prices, a stranger’s kind look—because the strange was overwhelming her own fragile body. His Moroccan exhaustion felt like her quiet strength. Later, An Ohio woman in the Philippines — Key Ideas to Explore stirred that same ache: being far from home, noting everything, remaining unseen, yet so present.

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