An Ohio woman in the Philippines — Key Ideas to Explore

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In Category - Geography
Conger, Emily Bronson, 1847-1917 Project Gutenberg 2009 Not confirmed
Philippines -- Description and travel Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Edition facts

Words 44,311
Reading time 193 min
Text sections 7

The source record for An Ohio woman in the Philippines — Key Ideas to Explore measures this digital text at 44,311 words, 3 hr 13 min estimated reading time, and 7 detected text sections.

The text analysis averages about 21.8 words per sentence, while the detected sections provide another way to judge how the source is divided.

Project Gutenberg metadata also associates the work with “Philippines -- Description and travel,” connecting these edition facts with the source record’s subject description.

Emily Bronson Conger's 1904 travel memoir recounts her solo voyage from San Francisco to the Philippines, with observations of Honolulu, Japan, and China. The narrative blends personal experience with detailed descriptions of Filipino flora, markets, and domestic life, filtered through an American woman's perspective during the early U.S. colonial period.
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here was fitted up in one of the bunks in the hold of the vessel a Joss house. I did not dare to see it, but I learned that there was the usual pyramid of shelves containing amongst them the gods of War and Peace. Before each god is a small vessel of sand to hold the Joss sticks, a perfumed taper to be burned in honor of the favorite deity, and there is often added a cup of tea and a portion of rice. There are no priests or preachers, but some man buys the privilege of running the Joss house, and charges each worshipper a small fee. The devotee falls on his knees, lays his forehead to the floor, and invocates the god of his choice. Soothsayers are always in attendance, and for a small sum one may know his future.

As between Chinese and Japanese, for fidelity, honesty, veracity and uprightness, my impression is largely in favor of the Chinese as a race. Captain Finch told me that on this ship, the Gælic, over which he had had charge for the past fifteen years, he had had, as head waiter, the same Chinaman that he started out with, and in all this period of service he never had occasion to question the integrity of this most faithful servant, who in the entire time had not been absent from the ship more than three days in all. On these rare occasions, this capable man had left for his substitute such minute instructions on bits of rice paper, placed where needed, that the work was carried on smoothly without need of supervision or other direction. The same holds true of Chinese servants on our Pacific coast. I was much pleased with the attention they gave each and every one of us during the entire trip; it was better service than any that I have ever seen on Atlantic ships. In the whole month's trip, I never heard one word of complaint.

Being a good sailor, I can hardly judge as to the "Peacefulness of the Pacific." Many were quite ill when to me there was only a gentle roll of the steamer, soothing to the nerves, and the splash of the waves only lulled me to sleep.

By day there were many entertainments, such as races, walking matches, quoits, and like games. Commander J. V. Bleecker, en route to take charge of the Mercedes reclaimed in Manila Bay, was a masterly artist in sleight-of-hand performances, and contributed much to the fun.

Often the evenings were enlivened with concerts and readings. Col. J. H. Bird, of New York, gave memorized passages from Shakespeare--scenes, acts, and even entire plays in perfect voice and character. We thought we were most fortunate in the opportunity to enjoy his clever rendition of several comedies.

But to one passenger, at least, the best and sweetest ministrations of all were the religious services. Bishop Potter took part in all wholesome amusements. He was often the director; he was the delightful chairman at all our musical and literary sessions; but it was in sacred service that his noble spiritual powers found expression. One calm, radiant Sunday morning he spoke with noblest eloquence on these words of the one hundred thirty-ninth psalm:--

Whither shall I go from thy spirit? or whither shall I flee from thy presence? If I ascend up into heaven thou art there; if I make my bed in hell, behold thou art there! If I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost part of the sea; Even there shall thy hand lead me and thy right hand shall hold me.

Fifteen months later, when wrecked on the coast of Panay, his clear voice again sounded in my soul with the assurance, "Even there shall thy hand lead me, and thy right hand shall hold me."

FIRST GLIMPSES OF JAPAN.

Emily Bronson Conger opens An Ohio Woman in the Philippines with a specific, personal moment: the echo of her son's parting words—"Now, mother, do be sure and take the very next boat and come to me"—as the steamer Morgan City leaves San Francisco. This direct quotation establishes a maternal motivation that runs beneath the travelogue, though the excerpts do not reveal whether she ultimately rejoined him. Conger writes in first-person, present-tense immediacy, yet the book is a retrospective account published in 1904, after her return. The opening chapter sets a tone of determined cheerfulness despite poor health and friends' warnings, and she frames her journey as both a personal errand and a quasi-official role, having secured a nurse appointment from Secretary of War Alger.

Diction of Departure and Arrival

Conger's word choices in the opening chapter reveal a writer who balances sentimental attachment with pragmatic resolve. She describes the Golden Gate sunset as tracing "We shall be back in the morning" on the portals—a personification that turns a natural phenomenon into a promise. The phrase "woeful prognostications of friends" shows a slight formality, while her vow to "stay in my cabin" contrasts with the invitation of the setting sun, suggesting an internal conflict between isolation and engagement. Throughout the excerpts, her diction remains that of an educated American woman of her era: precise but not florid, with occasional biblical echoes ("Mizpah" in the dedication). She uses concrete nouns—"steamer," "dock," "cabin"—and avoids abstract philosophizing, grounding her narrative in physical details.

Voice in Describing Flora and Fauna

Conger's voice shifts when she catalogs Philippine plants and fruits. She writes with a naturalist's eye but an amateur's vocabulary, naming species like pomelo and betel nut while admitting ignorance: "Other trees whose name I do not recall." Her comparisons are domestic—a fruit "not unlike a russet apple"—and her judgments are frank: oranges are "abundant but poor in quality." She expresses visceral reactions, as when ants swarm her gathered blooms: "oh, they can be felt!" This sensory immediacy contrasts with her more detached observations of native customs, such as the chewing of betel nut, which she describes with clinical precision ("air-slacked lime in a pepper leaf") but without approval. Her voice is consistently that of an outsider, curious but not assimilating.

Structure of Observation and Anecdote

The excerpts show a pattern: Conger moves from general description to specific incident. In the chapter on flowers and fruits, she first lists varieties, then recounts a personal anecdote about the guard gathering blooms, then reflects on native preferences for artificial flowers. This structure—catalog, story, commentary—recurs. The chapter on markets likely follows a similar arc. Her paragraphs are short, often beginning with a topic sentence ("The banana grows everywhere") and ending with a pointed remark ("They much prefer artificial stiffness to natural grace"). The effect is a travelogue that feels both informative and opinionated, though the opinions are those of a temporary resident, not a colonial administrator. The index reveals a topical organization—separate chapters on agriculture, minerals, animals—suggesting a methodical approach to her material.

Recurring Details of the Colonial Context

Conger repeatedly notes the impact of the Philippine-American War, though she does not narrate battles. Flowers were "trampled by both armies"; the flora "had been trampled into the mud by the soldiers of both armies." She mentions "our government" taking up restoration, and a chapter on the McKinley campaign and Governor Taft at Jaro places her within the U.S. colonial administration's orbit. Yet her perspective is that of a civilian woman: she watches funeral processions, notes the absence of natural blossoms, and describes native houses costing one dollar. The war is a backdrop, not the subject. Her recurring detail of ants infesting vegetation becomes a metaphor for the discomforts of occupation—small, pervasive, and maddening. The excerpts do not reveal her political stance, but her language implies acceptance of American presence.

Conger's narrative is best approached as a personal document rather than a comprehensive guide. Readers interested in the texture of daily life under early U.S. rule will find her observations of markets, fruits, and native customs valuable, but should note her limited access to Filipino perspectives. Her voice—sometimes wry, sometimes earnest—offers a window into how one American woman processed the strangeness and familiarity of the archipelago. The book rewards those who read for detail rather than plot, and who appreciate the incidental revelations of a traveler's eye.

I remember the way Conger wrote about anchoring somewhere new—the strangeness settling into something almost familiar by morning. My own copy of her memoir sits beside the one about Nova Scotia, a different coast, a different year, but the same quiet ache of seeing a place that will never quite see you back. Travels in Nova Scotia in the Year 1913 — Background and Themes holds that same lonely gentleness.

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