Where the strange trails go down — Context and Discussion
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here was at first some question as to whether the Governor-General had the authority to send a government vessel outside of territorial waters, but Mr. Quezon, who, so far as influence goes, is a Henry Cabot Lodge and a Boies Penrose combined, unearthed a law which permitted him to utilize the vessels of the coast-guard service for the purpose of entertaining visitors to the islands in such ways as the Government of the Philippines saw fit. And, in a manner of speaking, Mr. Quezon is the Government of the Philippines. Thus it came about that on the last day of February, 1920, the coast-guard cutter _Negros_, 150 tons and 150 feet over all--with a crew of sixty men, Captain A. B. Galvez commanding, and having on board the Lovely Lady, who accompanies me on all my travels; the Winsome Widow, who joined us in Seattle; the Doctor, who is an officer of the United States Health Service stationed at Manila; John L. Hawkinson, the efficient and imperturbable man behind the camera; three friends of the Governor-General, who went along for the ride; and myself--steamed out of Manila Bay into the crimson glory of a tropic sunset, and, when past Cavite and Corregidor, laid her course due south toward those magic isles and fairy seas which are so full of mystery and romance, so packed with possibilities of high adventure.
Governor-General Harrison believed, by methods that are legitimate, in adding to the American public's knowledge of the Philippines, and it was owing to his broad-minded point of view and to the many cablegrams which he sent ahead of us, that at each port in the islands at which we touched we found the local officials waiting on the pier-head to bid us welcome and to assist us. At Jolo, which is the capital of the Moro country, two lean, sun-tanned, youthful-looking men came aboard to greet us: one was the Honorable P. W. Rogers, Governor of the Department of Sulu; the other was Captain Link, a former officer of constabulary who is now the Provincial Treasurer. In the first five minutes of our conversation I discovered that they knew exactly the sort of picture material that I wanted and that they would help me to the limit of their ability to get it. For that matter, they themselves personify adventure in its most exciting form.
Rogers, who was originally a soldier, went to the Philippines as orderly for General Pershing long before the days when "Black Jack" was to win undying fame on battlefields half the world away. The young soldier showed such marked ability that, thanks to Pershing's assistance, he obtained a post as stenographer under the civil government, thence rising by rapid steps to the difficult post of Governor of Sulu. A better selection could hardly have been made, for there is no white man in the islands whom the Moros more heartily respect and fear than their boyish-looking governor. Mrs. Rogers is the daughter of a German trader who lived in Jolo and died there with his boots on. A year or so prior to her marriage she was sitting with her parents at tiffin when a Moro, with whom her father had had a trifling business disagreement, knocked at the door and asked for a moment's conversation. Telling the native that he would talk with him after he had finished his meal, the trader returned to the table. Scarcely had he seated himself when the Moro, who had slipped unobserved into the dining room, sprang like a panther, his broad-bladed _barong_ describing a glistening arc, and the trader's head rolled among the dishes. Another sweep of the terrible weapon and the mother's hand was severed at the wrist, while the future Mrs. Rogers owes her life to the fact that she fainted and slipped under the table. I relate this incident in order to give you some idea of the local atmosphere.
E. Alexander Powell opens Where the Strange Trails Go Down with a catalogue of place names and exotic images—"Sulu, Borneo, Celebes, Bali, Java"—that immediately establishes a tone of romantic allure. His foreword explicitly frames the book as a vicarious journey for those "condemned by circumstance to the prosaic existence of the office." Yet the excerpts reveal a more complex authorial stance: Powell often undercuts his own expectations with wry skepticism. When he arrives in Bali expecting "a Balinese edition of the Ziegfeld Follies chorus," he finds instead a surly Dutch harbor-master and a deserted waterfront. This tension between anticipation and reality shapes the narrative voice throughout.
Romantic Catalogues and Their Limits
Powell's prose frequently relies on stacked, breathless lists: "Sultans and rajahs ... pirates and head-hunters ... blow-guns with poisoned darts and curly-bladed krises." These accumulations mimic the sensory overload of travel and signal the exoticism he promises. Yet the same technique can undercut itself. In the foreword, the list ends with "the throb of war-drums and the tinkle of wind-blown temple-bells," a pairing that juxtaposes menace with delicacy. The effect is deliberate: Powell wants to convey both danger and beauty. However, when he arrives at a location, the actual details—a drunken official, a silent town—often contradict the catalogue's promise. This gap between rhetoric and reality becomes a recurring structural device, forcing the reader to question how much of the romance is Powell's literary construction.
Dialogue as Cultural Mediation
Powell uses dialogue not only to advance his narrative but to dramatize cultural encounters. The exchange with the Chinese steward at the Concordia Club is a striking example. The steward's broken English—"Menjepee make by pliest"—is rendered phonetically, marking him as a foreign speaker. Powell then has a Dutch officer step in to translate: "It's not a disease; it's a religious observance." This layered conversation reveals Powell's reliance on colonial intermediaries. The steward's speech is exoticized, while the Dutchman's perfect English positions him as a reliable informant. The dialogue thus enacts the colonial hierarchy: the native voice is garbled, the European voice clarifies. Powell does not comment on this dynamic, but the textual evidence shows how his authorial choices reinforce the very power structures he purports merely to describe.
First-Person Skepticism as Narrative Strategy
Powell frequently inserts his own doubts into the narrative. Before reaching Bali, he admits skepticism: "ever since I journeyed six thousand miles to see the women for whom Circassia has long been undeservedly famous, I have listened with doubt and distrust to the tales told by returned travelers." This self-deprecating confession serves several purposes. It humanizes the narrator, making him seem more reliable than the gullible tourists he implicitly criticizes. It also builds suspense: will Bali live up to its reputation? The payoff is delayed by the Menjepee observance, which forces Powell to wait. The skepticism is not sustained, however; later he eagerly seeks out the beautiful women on the south side of the island. The narrative thus oscillates between ironic detachment and genuine fascination, a pattern that may reflect Powell's own ambivalence about the exoticism he markets.
Descriptive Precision and Its Absences
When Powell describes physical settings, he often focuses on sensory details: "the blue waters off Boeleleng," "a boat's crew of white-clad Filipinos," "the fragrance of frangipani." These details create vivid, almost cinematic scenes. Yet there are notable gaps. The Balinese people themselves are initially invisible—"there was no sign" of them—and when they do appear, they are often mediated through European informants. The Dutch harbor-master is described by his "breath and disposition," a judgmental detail that tells us more about Powell's expectations than about the man. Similarly, the Chinese steward's face is "impassive" and "Celestial," a dated, orientalist descriptor. These choices reveal Powell's tendency to see locals as types rather than individuals. The descriptive precision is reserved for landscapes and colonial architecture, while indigenous figures remain sketchy or stereotyped.
Powell's travelogue is best read with attention to its narrative seams: the moments when romantic expectation meets mundane reality, when dialogue reveals colonial mediation, and when description slips into stereotype. The author's voice is engaging but not transparent; it carries the assumptions of its era. Readers interested in the construction of exoticism will find rich material in Powell's stylistic choices. The book rewards a critical eye that notes what is included, what is omitted, and who gets to speak.
I keep thinking about how those travel writers shape what we see, the careful words that turn a crowded street into something strange and beautiful. That same quiet craft lives in this one, The Automobilist Abroad — Text and Context, where the road becomes its own kind of wandering narrative, lingering long after the last page settles.
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