Cover of Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3) Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea — Story, Setting & Ideas

Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3) Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea — Story, Setting & Ideas

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Authors: Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 Digital Source: Project Gutenberg Gutenberg Release Year: 2018 First Publication Year: Not confirmed

Key Word: Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel Target Reader: Readers of public-domain and historical texts

Book Edition: Project Gutenberg digital edition Book Language: en

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Words 88,803

Reading time 387 min

Text sections 23

This digital edition of Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3) Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea — Story, Setting & Ideas is described by source-level measurements including 88,803 words, 6 hr 27 min estimated reading time, and 23 detected text sections.

The text analysis averages about 22.9 words per sentence, while the detected sections provide another way to judge how the source is divided.

Project Gutenberg metadata also associates the work with “Asia, Central -- Description and travel,” connecting these edition facts with the source record’s subject description.

Source: Project Gutenberg record #58074

Lieutenant Alexander Burnes's 1834 narrative of his journey from India to Bokhara, structured as a two-part account that separates the overland journey from the Indus voyage, with precise observations on geography, local customs, and political dynamics.

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LAHORE. Page Departure from Delhi.--Communication from Runjeet Sing.--Himalaya.--Villages on the Sutlege: People.--Banks of the Sutlege.--Physical Phenomena of Rivers.--Altars of Alexander.--Enter the Punjab.--Our Welcome chanted.--Civilities at Hurree.--Seik Fanatics.--Manja; country so called.--Antient Canals.--Town of Puttee.--Stud of Horses at Puttee.--An Acali, or Fanatic.--A Seik Chief and his Castle.--Famous Road of Juhangeer.--Enter Lahore.--Visit the Maharaja.--Earthquake at Lahore.--Join Runjeet Sing in the Field.--Description of his Camp.--Runjeet Sing marching.--Conversations of Runjeet Sing.--Superb Cashmere Tents.--A Visit from the Physician-general.--Runjeet Sing sporting.--Conversations of Runjeet Sing.--Return to Lahore.--Festival of the Busunt, or Spring.--Entertainment by the Maharaja.--Preparations for our Journey.--Kindness of Messrs. Allard and Court.--Audience of Leave.--Mons. Court’s Instructions 1-38

ACROSS THE PUNJAB TO THE INDUS.

Quit Lahore.--Reduction of Baggage.--Arrangements.--Garden described.--Himalaya.--Reach the Chenab or Acesines.--Soil and Wells.--Sugar.--A Seik Chief.--Seiks: Peculiarities of the Tribe.--Cross the Chenab.--Diseases: Opinions regarding them.--Cross the Jelum, or Hydaspes.--Arrival at Pind Dadun Khan.--Antiquities.--Salt Mines of Pind Dadun Khan.--Position of the Salt Range.--Formation, &c.--Mines, Strata, Temperature.--Manner of working the Salt.--Its Quality.--Supply of the Mineral.--Banks of the Hydaspes.--Villages.--Scene of Porus’s Battle.--Extensive Ruins.--Speculations.--Nicæ and Bucephalia.--Porus’s Army compared with Runjeet Sing’s.--Floating Islands.--Costume of the Ladies.--Arrival at Rotas.--Fortress.--Nature and Formation of Rocks.--Tope of Manikyala.--Coins and Antiques.--Manikyala identified with Taxilla.--Rawil Pindee.--Marks of quitting India.--Hurdwar Pilgrims: Reflections on seeing them.--Seik Priest.--Pass of Margulla.--Tope of Belur.--Garden of Hoosn Abdall.--See the Indus.--Encamp on the Indus.--Ford it.--Story of a Soldier.--Attok.--Phenomenon at Attok.--Washing Gold 39-80

Entrance into the Country of the Afghans.--Precautionary Arrangements.--Farewell Letter to Runjeet Sing.--Salt Monopoly.--Fields of Battle.--Entrance into Peshawur.--Afghan Entertainment.--Visitors.--Ride out with the Chief.--His Character.--Afghan manner of spending Friday.--Horrible Spectacle.--Brother of the Chief.--Arrangements for our Advance.--The Chief and his Court.--Visitors.--Juvenile Intelligence.--Rambles in Peshawur.--Quail fighting.--Hawking.--Moollah Nujeeb.--A Saint.--Disadvantages of giving Medicine.--Antiquities.--Conclusions regarding the “Topes.”--Preparations for Departure.--Maître d’Hôtel of the Chief 81-111

Departure from Peshawur.--Khyberees.--Passage of the Cabool River.--Caravan.--Scene in the Cabool River.--Mountains.--Formation of the Hills.--Interview with a Momund Chief.--Civility of a Khyberee.--Incident.--Pestilential Wind.--Antiquities.--Julalabad.--Snowy Mountains.--Bala-bagh.--Treatment by the People.--Gundamuk.--Cold Countries.--Neemla.--Manner of keeping Horses.--Jugduluk.--Post-houses of the Emperors.--Wandering Ghiljees.--Pastoral Scenes.--Ispahan.--Story of Futtih Khan.--Pass of Luta-bund.--Arrival in Cabool.--Our Conductor, Mahommed Shureeff 112-132

Arrival of Mr. Wolff.--Nawab Jubbar Khan.--Introduction to the Chief of Cabool.--Conversations.--Tomb of the Emperor Baber.--Prospect.--Intercourse with the People.--Cabool; its Bazars.--Traditions.--Coins.--Armenians.--Entertainment.--Gardens of Cabool.--Fruits and Wines.--Bala Hissar, or Prison.--Difference in Asiatic and European Manners.--Eed, or Festival.--Tomb of Timour Shah.--Alchymy and Minerals.--Freemasonry.--Jewish Origin of the Afghans; Opinions regarding it.--Party.--The Kaffirs, a singular People.--Preparations.--Shikarpooree Merchants.--Money Arrangements.--Civilisation by Commerce 133-170

JOURNEY OVER THE HINDOO KOOSH, OR SNOWY MOUNTAINS.

Quit Cabool.--Cafila-bashee.--Contraband Korans.--Julraiz.--Valley of the Cabool River.--Fish Preserve.--Ghuzni.--Pass of Oonna.--Effects of Snow.--Family of Huzaras.--Goître.--Ali Illahi.--Yezdan Buksh Huzara.--Pass of Hajeeguk and Kaloo.--Mountain Scenery.--Bameean excavated City.--Idols of Bameean.--Geographical Errors.--Leave Afghanistan.--Uzbek Chief of Syghan.--Feelings on entering Tartary.--Pass of Dundan Shikun.--Ruhmut oollah Khan.--Uzbek Pity.--Mahommedan Law.--Companions.--Asiatic Opinions of Europe.--Pass of Kara Koottul.--Adventures.--Life of a Traveller.--Modes of Salutation.--Tremendous Defiles.--Poisonous Plant.--Heibuk reptiles.--Houses.--People.--Khooloom and Plains of Tartary 171-206

SERIOUS DIFFICULTIES.--JOURNEY TO KOONDOOZ.

Difficulties at Khooloom.--Sketch of Moorcroft’s disasters.--Departure for Koondooz.--Favourable Opportunity for escape.--Night Adventure.--My Account of myself.--Imbecility of our Conductor.--Visiters, manner of Tea-drinking.--Traditions of Alexander the Great.--Interview with the Chief of Koondooz.--Incidents illustrative of Uzbek Character.--Koondooz; its Chief.--Departure from Koondooz.--Quit Khooloom.--Avaricious Conduct of our Conductor.--Dangers of the Road to Balkh.--Mirage.--Muzar.--Tomb of Mr. Trebeck.--Arrival at Balkh.--Intelligence of the Cafila-bashee 207-236

BALKH, AND JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

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Lieutenant Alexander Burnes opens his narrative with a deliberate structural choice: he separates the overland journey into Bokhara from the voyage on the Indus, placing the former in the first two volumes and the latter in the third. This division, as he tells the reader, prioritizes the journey's interest over chronological sequence. The work thus presents itself not as a continuous diary but as two distinct movements, each with its own pace and focus.

The excerpts reveal a narrator attentive to physical detail—snow glare, goitre prevalence, the altitude of passes—and equally alert to social and political textures. Burnes records the customs of unveiled Huzara women, the theological disputes of the Ali Illahi sect, and the pragmatic negotiations with local chiefs. His eye moves between landscape and human interaction, often within the same paragraph, creating a layered account of Central Asia in the 1830s.

A Journey Divided: Structure and Intent

Burnes explicitly states that he has “thrown the Journey into the first two volumes, from its interest being, perhaps, greater than that of the Voyage.” This editorial decision shapes the reader’s experience: the overland trek to Bokhara becomes the dramatic core, while the Indus voyage serves as a complementary narrative. The author also notes that the two subjects, “though parts of a whole, are distinct from each other.” This acknowledgment of separateness within unity is a key structural feature. The work is not a seamless travelogue but a deliberate arrangement of two expeditions, each with its own geography and purpose. The map by John Arrowsmith, sold separately, underscores the importance of spatial orientation. Burnes’s own surveys and observations, accumulated over nine years, provide the cartographic and scientific backbone. The reader is thus invited to move between text and map, between the narrative of movement and the static representation of territory.

Recurring Images: Snow, Eyes, and Antimony

A striking image recurs in the excerpts: the effect of snow on the traveller’s eyes. Burnes describes his eyes as “burned by the snow,” and a local woman recommends antimony, applied with a pencil, which he finds “much to the improvement of my appearance” but more importantly “to my relief and comfort when I again encountered the snow.” This small, sensory detail—the sting of reflected light, the dark powder, the repeated exposure—anchors the physical hardship of high-altitude travel. It is not a one-off observation; it ties into a broader pattern of attention to bodily experience. Later, Burnes notes the absence of goitre among mountaineers living at 10,000 feet, contrasting with its presence in the same range at lower altitudes. He cites a medical paper, grounding his observation in contemporary scientific debate. These recurring references to the body under duress—eyes, throat, altitude—create a tactile thread through the narrative, reminding the reader that travel is also a physical ordeal.

Movement Between Scenes: From Fort to Pass

The excerpts show Burnes moving rapidly between settings: from the fort of a Huzara chief to the mountain pass of Hajeeguk, from the advice of a “good matron” to the negotiation of a tax with a deputy. This movement is not merely geographical but social and political. At one fort, Burnes and his party wait “for an hour at the door” before paying a rupee each as a tax for being non-Muslims. The negotiation is handled by a Cafila-bashee, who gives Burnes “many a significant glance during the treaty.” The scene is charged with unspoken communication. Later, the party benefits from the absence of a powerful chieftain, Yezdan Bukhsh, who is away on a crusade against a heretic sect. Burnes notes that this absence is “a fortunate circumstance for us,” as the chief “acknowledges but a doubtful allegiance to Cabool.” The narrative thus shifts between the immediate, tactile encounter—the glance, the tax, the wait—and the larger political landscape of shifting allegiances and religious conflict. The reader is constantly aware of the layers of authority and risk that shape each stage of the journey.

The Ali Illahi Sect: A Digression on Belief

In the midst of describing the “elevated and dreary regions” of the Hindoo Koosh, Burnes pauses to recount the emergence of a religious sect called Ali Illahi. Its followers believe Ali is the Deity, greater than Mahommed, and that their leader can raise the dead and pass through fire. Burnes reports that the sect practices “community of women” and holds “bacchanalian orgies in the dark,” earning the name “Chiragh Koosh,” or lamp-killers. He notes that such a sect is not novel, being known in Persia and Turkey, but that “the march of intellect had not hitherto extended it to the gelid regions of Hindoo Koosh.” This digression is characteristic of Burnes’s method: he moves from physical description to social observation to comparative commentary. The passage also reveals his reliance on local informants and his own prior knowledge. The crusade against the sect, led by a Huzara chief, directly affects Burnes’s journey, as it removes a potential obstacle. The religious turmoil becomes a practical factor in the traveller’s progress, blending ethnographic curiosity with strategic calculation.

Burnes’s narrative rewards a reader attentive to the interplay of structure and detail. The deliberate separation of journey and voyage invites comparison between the two modes of travel—overland and riverine—while the recurring physical images and swift scene changes create a sense of constant motion. The work is best approached not as a continuous story but as a series of layered encounters, each shaped by geography, politics, and the traveller’s own observant eye. The map, if available, will anchor these movements in space.

Years among these shelves taught me how a voyage shapes the traveler. Lieutenant Burnes measured deserts and rivers with patient eyes, yet lingered on the people he met. There is a quiet kinship with A Trip to the Orient: The Story of a Mediterranean Cruise — Background and Themes—another traveler, another sea, but the same gentle noticing of how places leave their mark on a willing heart.