In Troubadour-Land: A Ramble in Provence and Languedoc — Themes and Context

The Tiber in Flood--Typhoid fever in Rome--Florence--A Jew acquaintance--Drinking in Provence--Buying _bric-à-brac_ with the Jew--the _carro_ on Easter Eve--Its real Origin--My Jew friend's letters--Italian _dolce far niente_

No ill without a counterbalancing advantage--An industry peculiar to Italy--Italian honesty--Buffalo Bill at Naples--The Prince and the straw-coloured gloves--The Riviera--A tapestry--Nice--Its flowers--Notre Dame--The château--My gardener--A pension of ugly women--Horses and their hats--Antibes--Meeting of Honoré IV. and Napoleon--The Grimaldis--Lérins, an Isle of Saints--A family jar--Healed

The freedman of Pliny--Forum Julii--The Port of Agay--The Port of Fréjus--Roman castle--Aqueduct--The lantern of Augustus--The cathedral--Cloisters--Boy and dolphin--Story told by Pliny--The _Chains des Maures_--Désaugiers--Dines with the porkbutchers of Paris--Siéyès--_Sans phrase_--Agricola--His discoveries

The three islands Phoenice, Phila, Iturium--Marseilles first a Phoenician colony--The tariff of fees exacted by the priests of Baal--The arrival of the Ionians--The legend of Protis and Gyptis--Second colony of Ionians--The voyages of Pytheas and Euthymenes--Capture of Marseilles by Trebonius--Position of the Greek city--The Acropolis--Greek inscriptions--The lady who never "jawed" her husband--The tomb of the sailor-boy--Hôtel des Négociants--Ménu--Entry of the President of the Republic--Entry of Francis I.--The church of S. Vincent--The cathedral--Notre Dame de la Garde--The abbey of S. Victor--Catacombs--The fable of S. Lazarus

The Basin of Berre--A neglected harbour--The diluvium--Formation of the Crau--The two Craus--Canal of Craponne--Climate of the Crau--The _bise_ and _mistral_--Force of the wind--Cypresses--A vision of kobolds

Difficulty of finding one's way about in Arles--The two inns--The _mistral_--The charm of Arles is in the past--A dead city--Situation of Arles on a nodule of limestone--The Elysian Fields--A burial-place for the submerged neighbourhood--The Alyscamp now in process of destruction--Expropriation of ancient tombs--Avenue of tombs--Old church of S. Honoré--S. Trophimus--S. Virgilius--Augustine, apostle of the English, consecrated by him--The flying Dutchman--Tomb of Ælia--Of Julia Tyranna--Her musical instruments--Monument of Calpurnia--Her probable story--Mathematical _versus_ classic studies--Tombs of _utriculares_--Christian sarcophagi--Probably older than the date usually attributed to them--A French author on the wreckage of the Elysian Fields

The Arles race a mixture of Greek and Gaulish--The colonisation by the Romans--The type of beauty in Arles--The amphitheatre--A bull-baiting--Provençal bull-baits different from Spanish bull-fights--The theatre--The ancient Greek stage--The destruction of the Arles theatre--Excavation of the orchestra--Discovery of the Venus of Arles--A sick girl--Palace of Constantine

Sunday in France--Improved observance--The cathedral of Arles--West front--Interior-Tool-marks--A sermon on peace--The cloisters--Old Sacristan and his garden--Number of desecrated churches in Arles--Notre Dame de la Majeur--S. Cæsaire--The isles near Arles--Cordes--Montmajeur--A gipsy camp--The ruins--Tower--The chapel of S. Croix

The chain of the Alpines--The promontory of Les Baux--The railway from Arles to Salon--First sight of Les Baux--The churches of S. Victor, S. Claude, and S. Andrew--The lords of Les Baux claimed descent from one of the Magi--The fair maid with golden locks--The chapel of the White Penitents--The _deïmo_--History of the House of Les Baux--The barony passes to the Grimaldi--The ladies of Les Baux and the troubadours--Fouquet--William de Cabestaing--The morality of the loves of the troubadours--The Porcelets--Story of a siege--Les Baux a place of refuge for the citizens of Arles--_Glanum Liviæ_--Its Roman remains--In the train--Jäger garments

THE CAMPAIGN OF MARIUS.

The Trémaïé--Representation of C. Marius, Martha, and Julia--The Gaïé--The Teutons and Ambrons and Cimbri threaten Italy--C. Marius sent against them--His camp at S. Gabriel--The canal he cut--The barbarians cross the Rhone--First brush with them--They defile before him at Orgon--The rout of the Ambrons at Les Milles--He follows the Teutons--The plain of Pourrières--Position of Marius--The battle--Slaughter of the Teutons--Position of their camp--Monument of Marius--Venus Victrix--Annual commemoration

The fortifications of Trets--The streets--The church--Roman sarcophagus--Château of Trets--Visit to a self-educated archæologist--His collection made on the battle-field--Dispute over a pot of burnt bones--One magpie--Gardanne--The church--A vielle--Trouble with it--Story of an executioner's sword

Dooll, but the mutton good--Les Bains de Sextius--Ironwork caps to towers--S. Jean de Malthe--Museum--Cathedral--Tapestries and tombs--The cloisters--View from S. Eutrope--King René of Anjou--His misfortunes--His cheeriness--His statue at Aix--Introduces the Muscat grape

Formation of the delta of the Rhone--The diluvial wash--The alluvium spread over this--The three stages the river pursues--The zone of erosion--The zone of compensation--The zone of deposit--River mouths--Estuaries and deltas--The formation of bars--Of lagoons--The lagoons of the Gulf of Lyons--The ancient position of Arles between the river and the lagoons--Neglect of the lagoons in the Middle Ages--They become morasses--Attempt at remedy--Embankments and drains--A mistake made--The Camargue now a desert--Les Saintes Maries--No evidence to support the legend--Based on a misapprehension

Position of Tarascon and Beaucaire opposite each other--Church of S. Martha--Crypt--Ancient paintings--Catechising--Ancient altar--The festival of the Tarasque--The Phoenician goddess Martha--Story of S. Fronto--Discussion at _déjeûner_ over the entry of M. Carnot into Marseilles--The change in the French character--Pessimism--Beaucaire--Font--Castle--Siege by Raymond VII.--Story of Aucassin and Nicolette