A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America — Reading Companion
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Sail for New York in an American vessel--the crew--ostentation of the Captain--a heavy gale--soundings--icebergs--bay of New York--Negros and Negresses--White Ladies--climate--fires--vagrant pigs--Frances Wright--Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
Depart for Albany--the Hudson--Albany--Cohoe's Falls--Rome--the Little Falls--forest of charred trees--"stilly night" in a swamp--fire fly--Rochester--Falls of Gennessee--Sam. Patch--an eccentric character--Falls of Niagara--the Tuscarora Indians--Buffalo--Lake Erie--the Iroquois--the Wyandots--death of Seneca John, and its consequences--ague fever--Wyandot prairie--the Delawares' mode of dealing with the Indians--the transporting of Negros to Canada
Arrive at Marion--divorces--woodlands--Columbus--land offices--population, &c. Shaking Quakers--kidnapping free Negros--Cincinnati--the farmers of Ohio--a corn-husking frolic--qualifications necessary to Senators, Legislators, and Electors--a camp-meeting--militia officers' muster--Presbyterian parsons--price of land, cattle, &c.--fever and ague
Set out for New Harmony--the roads--a backwoodsman--the journey--peaches--casualties--travelling--New Harmony--M. Le Seur--barter--excursion down the Wabash--the co-operative community--Robert Owen
Depart for St. Louis--Albion--the late Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers--Hardgrove's prairie--the roads--the Grand prairie--prairie wolf--mode of training dogs--Elliott's inn--inhabitants of Illinois--ablutions--coal--soil and produce--the American Bottom--St Louis--monopolies--Fur companies--incivility of a certain Major--trapping expedition--trade with Santa Fé--lead mines--Carondalot--Jefferson barracks--discipline--visit to a slave-holder--the Ioway hostages--Indian investigation--character of the Indians.
Leave St. Louis--Indian mounds--remains of ancient fortifications--burial caverns--mummies--Flint's description of a mummy--the languages of America--town making--the Indian summer--population, &c. of Illinois--the prairie hen--the Turkey buzzard--settlers--forest in autumn--a gouging scrape--the country--extent and population of Indiana--hogs--a settler in bottom land--the sugar maple--roads--a baptism
Set out for New Orleans--Louisville--Mississippi steam-boats--the Ohio--the Mississippi--sugar plantations--the valley of the Mississippi--New Orleans--Quadroons--slavery--a Methodist slavite--runaway Negros--incendiary fires at Orleans--liberty of the press--laws passed by the legislature of Louisiana--Miss Wright--public schools--yellow fever--the Texas
Depart for Louisville--tellandsea, or Spanish moss--Natchez--the yellow fever--cotton plantations--Mississippi wood-cutters--freshets--planters, sawyers, and snags--steam-boat blown up--the Chickesaws--hunting in Tennessee--electioneering--vote by ballot--trade on the Ohio and Mississippi rivers--the People--the President's veto--finances--government banks--Kentucky--the Kentuckians--court-houses--an election--universal suffrage--an Albino--Diluvian reliqua
The political condition of the Indians--Missionaries--the letter of Red-jacket--the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
Kenhawa salt-works--coal--a Radical--rattle-snakes--Baltimore--Philadelphia--taxation--shipping
"The Workies"--Miss Wright--the opening of the West India ports to American vessels--voyage homeward--the stormy petrel--Gulf weed--the remora--the molusca--quarantine
Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our vessel was manned with a real _American_ crew, that is, a crew, of which scarcely two men are of the same nation--which conveys a tolerably correct notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros--the cook and steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better protected, than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old, might have suffered severely.
In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she _could_ carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with horses, the more they _have done_, the less they have _to do_.
I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the real character and condition of the people; for, from their great nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea, than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, and covering the rigging with mats--even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges, and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures, were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once more _in statu quo_.
For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks, and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in, perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction, as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, "Poor feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;" I could not help thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is the best of all possible worlds.
S. A. Ferrall's A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America began as private letters written for acquaintances, not as a planned publication. The preface frames the work as a corrective to European preconceptions: America as a mere forest of bears, rattlesnakes, and backwoodsmen. Ferrall instead presents a country where "the great city could be traced to the infant town" and where "all the elements of society, civilized and uncivilized" coexist. This tension between expectation and observation shapes the narrative.
The excerpts reveal a writer attentive to statistics—he disputes a yellow fever death toll by citing sexton records—and to the physical texture of places. His description of New Orleans's port as "the most extraordinary medley of any port in the world" sets the tone for a travelogue that mixes sharp detail with moral commentary.
From Private Letters to Published Account
Ferrall explains that his sketches "were not originally intended for publication" and were "forwarded to Europe in the shape of letters." This epistolary origin explains the book's informal, observational style. He deliberately avoids repeating the statistical work of earlier travelers, focusing instead on what he believes they overlooked. The preface also reveals his awareness of European condescension toward America, which he counters by describing the continent's diversity—from seaboard cities to "the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman." Readers should note that the book's structure likely follows his journey chronologically, with each chapter covering a leg of the ramble.
New Orleans: A City of Contrasts
The extended excerpt on New Orleans is the most detailed in the sample. Ferrall catalogs the port's "flat-boats, arks, peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats" and notes the city's French and Spanish architecture, flat roofs built to withstand tornadoes. He describes gambling establishments paying a $5,000 annual tax, Sunday evenings at the Théâtre d'Orléans, and "quadroon balls" attended by young men with their "chéres amies." Crucially, he observes that Louisiana law prohibits marriage between white men and free quadroon women, even those educated in France. This passage blends ethnographic detail with implicit critique of racial hierarchies.
Slavery as a Central Observation
Ferrall does not shy from condemning slavery. He writes that in the South, slavery "exists in its most unqualified condition" and describes enslaved people "exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care, and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses." He notes that laws against separating families are "little attended to" because local magistrates are slaveholders themselves. The language is direct: "Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence." These passages suggest that Ferrall's travelogue is as much a moral document as a geographical one.
The Traveler's Voice and Method
Ferrall positions himself as a detached observer who was "allowed to act as I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought singular." He refrains from discussing "domestic habits and manners" because Captain Hall and others have covered them. Instead, he focuses on scenes he considers unique: the port's chaos, the city's racial dynamics, and the physical environment. His method is empirical—he consults a sexton to verify death tolls—but his tone remains that of a gentleman rambler. Readers should expect a mix of statistical correction, vivid description, and occasional irony.
Ferrall's Ramble rewards readers who attend to its specific, often critical observations. The excerpts show a writer more interested in the social and economic realities of 1830s America than in picturesque scenery. Pay particular attention to how he handles numbers—death counts, taxes, distances—and how he juxtaposes European expectations with American practices. The book's letter-like origins mean each chapter may stand somewhat alone, making it suitable for selective reading.
I keep returning to Ferrall’s letters, especially his unease in New Orleans—that odd blend of fascination and recoil. It reminds me of how Twilight in Italy captures a similar ache, the traveler half-in love with a place they can never quite belong to. There’s something tender in that distance, like a memory you hold at arm’s length. Twilight in Italy — Themes and Context lingers the same way, softly.
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