A Walk through Leicester being a Guide to Strangers — Text and Context
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Fosse did pass thro' Leicester, and the Romans in forming their roads scrupulously adhered to the strait line, they would cross the old Soar near this place.
When the Romans penetrated into Britain under the reign of Claudius, they found it almost in every part, crowded with woods, and infested with morasses; and as the natives well knew how to avail themeslves of these fastnesses, the island could never be considered as effectually conquered till it was rendered accessible to the march of the legions, and means were provided for speedy communication of intelligence from even the most distant parts of the provinces. On this account their Cohorts early applied themselves to the task of forming roads; nor did they cease their labours till in the time of Antoninus, they had opened passages thro' the island in all directions. In the reign of that emperor, these works, connected with others which they had already constructed on the continent, formed a great chain of communication, which, passing thro' Rome, from the Pict's wall, or north west, to Jerusalem, nearly the southeast point of the empire, was drawn out to the length of 4080 Roman, or as Mr. Reynolds has shewn, of so many British statute miles. Along these roads proper relays of horses were stationed at short distances, and it seems that couriers could travel with ease above an hundred miles a day. Two of these roads, as already observed, passed thro' Leicester. One, the _Via Devana_, leading from Camalodunum, or Colchester, in Essex, to _Deva_, of west Chester, a distance of about two hundred miles, has been lately discovered by some ingenious and able Antiquaries of the University of Cambridge.
It enters Leicestershire in the neighbourhood of Rockingham; continues a strait road for many miles till it nearly reaches Leicester, and passing thro' the town it is found to leave the county near Ashby-de-la-Zouch. The other road, called the _Via_ _Fossata_ or Fosse, always known, and every where remarkable, traverses the island in a north-east direction, from near Grimsby on the coast of Lincolnshire, passes thro' Bath, and terminates at Seaton, a village situated on the coast of Devonshire, a distance of more than two hundred and fifty miles. This road enters Leicesteshire at a place called Seg's Hill, on the wolds, or antiently wild and uncultivated parts of the county; from thence it passes the village of Thurmaston and approaches the East gates of Leicester, by the street called the Belgrave Gate. On the south-west of the town it is again recognized in the Narborough road, and from that village it proceeds again a solitary lane till it enters Warwickshire at High Cross, where it crosses the no less celebrated Roman road, the Watling-Street. It is well known that in the formation of these roads, the Romans spared no cost and labour. From the remains of some of them it appears that upon a bed of sand they spread a coating of gravel, upon which the pebbles, and sometimes hewn or squared stones were laid, firmly compacted together in a bed of cement. This, we have reason to believe, was the structure of such of the roads in this island as are distinguished by the title of _Street_, a word derived from the Latin _Strata_, meaning formed of layers. But such pains were not, it is probable, taken in all cases; and from the name of one of the roads passing thro' Leicester, the _Fosse_, an abbreviation of the Latin _Via Fossata_, meaning the way ditched, or dug, we cannot but conclude that it was a road raised by the spade and formed with a rampart, and probably covered with gravel in the manner of our present turnpike roads. The same may also be said of the _Via Divana_, whose rampart, now covered with grass, the ingenious discoverers observed in many places.
When the Saxons subdued this island, after the departure of the Romans, to preserve a ready communication between distant places formed no part of then rude and simple policy. Hence the best roads of the Romans were neglected by them, and since the Romans had either forbidden, or the inclination of the Britons had dissuaded them from erecting villages on the line of public roads, those roads became useless, and their lasting materials are only to be found, tho' not distinguished, in the foundations of the neighbouring habitations. As it would always be more easy to carry away the materials of a Roman road than dig for them in a quarry, it has happened that those materials have been in general so intirely removed, as to leave almost no where any other trace, than history and tradition, of their existence.
Susannah Watts's A Walk through Leicester (1804) opens with a Shakespearean epigraph that frames the guide as a temporary visitor's survey of the town's manners, traders, and buildings. The address to inhabitants signals a dual audience: strangers seeking a 'POCKET CICERONE' and locals who may rediscover familiar scenes through the editor's eyes. The prose immediately establishes a tone of polite erudition, promising to make the most of 'Roman remains' and to guide the reader from 'rough forest stones' to 'smoother pavement of Roman mosaic.' This blend of practical direction and antiquarian curiosity shapes the entire work.
A Guide for Multiple Travellers
The opening pages explicitly address three types of reader: the tourist seeking general information, the reflective observer who finds meditation in crowded towns or solitary fields, and the mercantile rider who strolls after business. This tripartite audience reveals the author's awareness that a guidebook must serve varied purposes. The language is courteous and inclusive, inviting the 'good-humoured stranger' to accept guidance. Notably, the editor also inscribes the work to Leicester's inhabitants, acknowledging that locals may use it to point out 'memorable objects' to visitors. This dual dedication—to strangers and residents—suggests the guide was intended as both a practical tool and a civic tribute.
Architectural Layers and Historical Inference
Watts's descriptions of St. Mary's Church exemplify her method: she notes 'specimens of various kinds of architecture, from the Norman gothic of the north chancel, to the very modern gothic of the spire.' This mixture, she argues, 'evinces the antiquity of the church, marks the disasters of violence, accident, and time.' She traces the building's history through its fabric, citing Saxon bricks and cheveron work as evidence of Norman repairs. The account of the collegiate church's endowment, the conversion of canons, and the survival of seven cranes in a vestry press demonstrates a meticulous use of material remains to reconstruct institutional history. Such passages show the author as an antiquarian who reads buildings as documents.
Charitable Foundations and Civic Benefaction
The walk repeatedly pauses at charity schools and almshouses. At the corner of an area stands a school established by Ald. Gabriel Newton for clothing and educating thirty-five boys, with the founder's will specifying instruction 'in toning and psalmody.' Nearby, a lane leads to a Calvinistic Baptist meeting house capable of containing 500 persons. Later, the visitor encounters a 'Consanguinitarium' built by architect John Johnson in 1792—five dwellings with a yearly stipend for relations 'not favored by successful fortune.' These entries reflect the guide's interest in philanthropy as a visible marker of civic virtue, and they ground the town's moral landscape in specific bequests and institutions.
The Texture of Everyday Leicester
Beyond major churches and Roman remains, Watts includes details that evoke the lived environment: a house on High-Cross Street containing painted glass windows depicting 'a regular series of sacred history'; a charity school in Castle Street that clothes and educates forty-five boys and thirty-five girls. The description of St. Mary's interior notes that 'the inside of the church is spacious and commodious, and has lately been rendered still more so by converting the gothic arches of the south side of the nave into one bold semicircular arch whose span is 39 feet.' Such observations ground the guide in specific, measurable features, giving the reader a sense of scale and recent alteration. The author's eye for both the ancient and the newly improved creates a layered portrait of a town in transition.
Watts's guide rewards readers who attend to its precise diction—'crouded towns,' 'rough forest stones,' 'smoother pavement'—and its habit of linking physical details to historical processes. The work is best read as a companion for a slow walk, pausing at each site to compare the 1804 description with what remains today. Its value lies not in comprehensive coverage but in the particularity of its observations, which capture a moment when Leicester's medieval and modern fabrics coexisted under the eye of a knowledgeable, courteous cicerone.
There are mornings when I open Susannah Watts's Leicester, and the way she chats with a stranger at a street corner feels less like history and more like an old friend settling beside me. That same unhurried, confiding intimacy drifted back to me recently while leafing through Abroad with the Jimmies — Themes and Context, its tone so familiar it might have been written by her travelling cousin.
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